Greetings and salutations from your humble correspondent!
As many of you are painfully aware, I am struggling to create a happy, well-adjusted, and functional piece of woodworking equipment known in woodworking circles as a router table. One step of the process is to use laminate on both sides of the table’s bed. Remember, the table bed is made out of two plies of MDF, banded with the material of your choice. I chose ½” Baltic birch plywood.
Today I took the next step by gluing the laminate to the MDF substrate, using contact cement. Contact cement is a strange, wonderful, and possibly dangerous concoction of unknown origin. Let me clarify: unknown to me. Those of you who diligently read instructions, warning labels, and other necessary but time consuming practices will understand my consternation. The basic warning labels read as such: Contact cement should be used in the absence of any type of flame; including pilot lights, electric motors, static electricity, and any other possible source of fire. It should only be used in a well-ventilated space, with an optimum temperature of 65 degrees. Gloves and goggles are not only fashionable, but necessary. Exposure to material could cause brain damage and birth defects. In the state of California there is evidence that the material may cause cancer in lab rats in concentrations one part per billion (I exaggerate). Rats in other states are considered safe. It seems to me that contact cement is analogous to the Corvair: IT IS UNSAFE AT ANY SPEED. And finally, the print size of the can in question is functional only for those with 20/10 vision in conjunction with the Hubble telescope. Some studies have shown that reading micro-print can, indeed, cause focal trauma.
Considering the myriad of hoops one must jump through in order to use said product in a safe manner, I went boldly forward in my quest of someday producing a complete router table. The old adage, “Damn the torpedoes, full speed ahead!” seems appropriate. So despite the warnings of eminent brain damage and death, I somehow used the product to good effect, and was able to laminate both sides of my MDF substrate. While I believe safety is important, sometimes it seems difficult to obtain. Yes, we must read the ‘Warnings’, and heed them to the best of our ability. I will continue to keep you informed of any progress made.
Remember: Quality trumps speed.
Pontification: I vote for the guitar lead in Hotel California as quite possibly the best lead guitar riff in all of rock and roll. Yes, even better than Freebird.” Freebird only wins out in speed, whereas Hotel California is much deeper in melodic essence.
Story of yore: After leaving California in 1964, I was quickly inculcated into the social structure of an alien landscape; namely, Rogers, AR. Allow me to explain… As my parents and I entered the downtown area, I was drawn to the cobblestone streets and the historic nature of the city. But the moment of my epiphany came when we paused to allow a barefooted, corpulent resident of the female nature to cross the intersection in front of our car. As she sauntered across the street, she spit a large chaw of tobacco, quite possibly Red Man. My eyes were opened and I realized that life here would be much different than what I had previously known. At that point, I began to transition into Southern Living.
THE HACK
Tuesday, March 23, 2010
Sunday, March 21, 2010
Gallery
Bent Arm Morris Chair
Round End Table
My interpretation of a Limbert Magazine Pedestal.
Mission Two-Drawer Chest with through tenons and quarter-sawn white oak.
My interpretation of the H. Ellis Bookcase.
My interpretation of the Stickley Bridal Chest including hand-hammered copper hardware.
Mission Settle
Contemporary Audio Cabinet with hand-cut dovetails and sliding doors with cherry cabinet and died white oak base. Featured in Fine Woodworking's Design Book 8.
Many thanks to Matt & Meghan Feyerabend, Aus10 Photography, http://aus10.com/!
Queen Ann Low Boy in walnut featuring carved trifid feet, carved shell, drop finials, and hand-cut dovetails as seen in Gallery of Woodwork Magazine #55.
Small Cherry Cabinet features tombstone panel doors and turned feet as seen in Gallery of Woodwork Magazine #55.
Hall Table with walnut and glass panels. The overall lines for this table came from a measured drawing by Carlyle Lynch. I simplified the brackets and made the top as a frame with glass panels as seen in Gallery of Woodwork Magazine #55.
The Keeping Box in cherry featuring scroll cut, bracket feet, hand-cut dovetails, and breadboard ends as seen in Table of Contents of Woodwork Magazine #55.
Round End Table
My interpretation of a Limbert Magazine Pedestal.
Mission Two-Drawer Chest with through tenons and quarter-sawn white oak.
My interpretation of the H. Ellis Bookcase.
My interpretation of the Stickley Bridal Chest including hand-hammered copper hardware.
Mission Settle
Contemporary Audio Cabinet with hand-cut dovetails and sliding doors with cherry cabinet and died white oak base. Featured in Fine Woodworking's Design Book 8.
Many thanks to Matt & Meghan Feyerabend, Aus10 Photography, http://aus10.com/!
Queen Ann Low Boy in walnut featuring carved trifid feet, carved shell, drop finials, and hand-cut dovetails as seen in Gallery of Woodwork Magazine #55.
Small Cherry Cabinet features tombstone panel doors and turned feet as seen in Gallery of Woodwork Magazine #55.
Hall Table with walnut and glass panels. The overall lines for this table came from a measured drawing by Carlyle Lynch. I simplified the brackets and made the top as a frame with glass panels as seen in Gallery of Woodwork Magazine #55.
The Keeping Box in cherry featuring scroll cut, bracket feet, hand-cut dovetails, and breadboard ends as seen in Table of Contents of Woodwork Magazine #55.
Adventures With Twisted Panels and Twisted People
To all earthlings driven to construction of objects of the wooden nature: Greetings. The construction of the much ballyhooed and aforementioned router table has slowed to a snail’s pace.
Allow me to explain. Most router tabletops call for two laminated layers of MDF (medium density fiberboard), with banding on the edge, and formica laminated to both sides. Using Titebond II, a flat work surface, weights, and an intrepid spirit, I launched into a voyage of uncertainty yesterday, laminating the two sheets of MDF. Unfortunately, the glue-up was problematic. Instead of a flat plane on both sides of the MDF panel, I created a twist in the panel itself. Faced with this dilemma, I had two choices. Choice #1: Start from scratch… lose more money… waste more time. Choice #2: Flatten existing MDF panel… lose less money… waste less tim
e. Remember, the panel is 26” x 48”, so using the jointer is not an option. All possible solutions pointed to the lowly hand plane… more specifically, the scrub plane. For those of you unfamiliar with said beast, it is a tool no woodworker should be without. The blade is curved like a gouge, and it sports a very large throat. The cut produces a concaved trough, wh
ich removes material quite aggressively. The scrub plane, a straight edge, and of course adequate elbow grease, will produce a flat panel. The finished product may be obtained by using a regular bench plane, a large sanding block, or even an orbital sander to smooth the surface.
After flatt
ening the MDF panel on both sides, I banded the edges with half-inch plywood. My next step in the process will be gluing the formica (laminate) to the panel. Regrettably, the weather (14 inches of snow and low temperatures) has decidedly dampered my advances. I will eventually report back successes and or failures.
Take Home Message I: Ponder seriously your acquisition of a scrub plane. It is an important tool in your arsenal.
Take Home Message II: As most of you know with any real construction project, the estimated date of completion is more or less a fairytale, as it is with the router table. Therefore, after missing one estimated date of completion, I will refrain from venturing another guess.
Remember: Quality trumps speed.
SCRUB PLANE AFFICIONADO
Allow me to explain. Most router tabletops call for two laminated layers of MDF (medium density fiberboard), with banding on the edge, and formica laminated to both sides. Using Titebond II, a flat work surface, weights, and an intrepid spirit, I launched into a voyage of uncertainty yesterday, laminating the two sheets of MDF. Unfortunately, the glue-up was problematic. Instead of a flat plane on both sides of the MDF panel, I created a twist in the panel itself. Faced with this dilemma, I had two choices. Choice #1: Start from scratch… lose more money… waste more time. Choice #2: Flatten existing MDF panel… lose less money… waste less tim
e. Remember, the panel is 26” x 48”, so using the jointer is not an option. All possible solutions pointed to the lowly hand plane… more specifically, the scrub plane. For those of you unfamiliar with said beast, it is a tool no woodworker should be without. The blade is curved like a gouge, and it sports a very large throat. The cut produces a concaved trough, wh
ich removes material quite aggressively. The scrub plane, a straight edge, and of course adequate elbow grease, will produce a flat panel. The finished product may be obtained by using a regular bench plane, a large sanding block, or even an orbital sander to smooth the surface.After flatt
ening the MDF panel on both sides, I banded the edges with half-inch plywood. My next step in the process will be gluing the formica (laminate) to the panel. Regrettably, the weather (14 inches of snow and low temperatures) has decidedly dampered my advances. I will eventually report back successes and or failures.Take Home Message I: Ponder seriously your acquisition of a scrub plane. It is an important tool in your arsenal.
Take Home Message II: As most of you know with any real construction project, the estimated date of completion is more or less a fairytale, as it is with the router table. Therefore, after missing one estimated date of completion, I will refrain from venturing another guess.
Remember: Quality trumps speed.
SCRUB PLANE AFFICIONADO
Saturday, March 13, 2010
Iron Trumps Plastic
To the sons and daughters of American woodworking and beyond: Greetings. On occasion I will attempt to critique some of the tools in my shop. This is not a comparison; just one man’s opinion.
Allow me to begin with some background (circa 1998): In dire need of a band saw with re-saw capability, I purchased a 20” American-made band saw from a well-known manufacturer/trusted retailer. After my acquisition was firmly ensconced within my shop building, I became aware that all was not as it should be. Among other troublesome defects, I found cracks in the wheel castings, and realized that I could not adjust the saw wheels into the same plane (coplaner). This saw was the equivalent of a sheet metal and plastic train wreck. After much consternation, wailing, and gnashing of teeth, I returned the band saw to the manufacturer in question and never looked back.
Fast forward three months: Because of a solid recommendation from James Krenov, I began to consider the possibility of owning a vintage saw. The saw in question was none other than the Yates American Y-20. Few things in this life are as good as advertised. This one is!!! The Yates Y-20 is a tour de force of light industrial machinery (light as in 1150 lbs); a virtual battleship in terms of construction. The heart of the saw is a one-piece iron casting. The motor is a 1 hp, 3 phase brute, which dwarfs all other motors in my shop. The massive bottom cast iron flywheel is mounted directly to the motor. No flimsy belts allowed. The table is –you guessed it- heavy cast iron, 26” square, and will tilt to 45 degrees; able to cut those pesky bevels at a single bound. Saw capacity is 19”, with a 10” re-saw. (Refer to previous blog for photos).
Suffice it to say, this saw met and exceeded my expectations. Therefore, if you are in the market for a band saw or just want to upgrade your current machinery, you may want to consider a vintage piece of equipment, such as the Y-20 Yates American. It’ll treat ya right.
Today in My Shop
After building eleven drawers for my router table, I faced the frames and will add inset drawer fronts. Photographs are forthcoming. Estimated time of completion: one week.
Sidenote
After 30 years of wedded bliss to the love of my life, I am firmly convinced she’s the one for me. March 14, 1980 - March 14, 2010.
Remember: Quality trumps speed (as iron trumps plastic).
WOODUS HACCUS MAXIMUS
Allow me to begin with some background (circa 1998): In dire need of a band saw with re-saw capability, I purchased a 20” American-made band saw from a well-known manufacturer/trusted retailer. After my acquisition was firmly ensconced within my shop building, I became aware that all was not as it should be. Among other troublesome defects, I found cracks in the wheel castings, and realized that I could not adjust the saw wheels into the same plane (coplaner). This saw was the equivalent of a sheet metal and plastic train wreck. After much consternation, wailing, and gnashing of teeth, I returned the band saw to the manufacturer in question and never looked back.
Fast forward three months: Because of a solid recommendation from James Krenov, I began to consider the possibility of owning a vintage saw. The saw in question was none other than the Yates American Y-20. Few things in this life are as good as advertised. This one is!!! The Yates Y-20 is a tour de force of light industrial machinery (light as in 1150 lbs); a virtual battleship in terms of construction. The heart of the saw is a one-piece iron casting. The motor is a 1 hp, 3 phase brute, which dwarfs all other motors in my shop. The massive bottom cast iron flywheel is mounted directly to the motor. No flimsy belts allowed. The table is –you guessed it- heavy cast iron, 26” square, and will tilt to 45 degrees; able to cut those pesky bevels at a single bound. Saw capacity is 19”, with a 10” re-saw. (Refer to previous blog for photos).
Suffice it to say, this saw met and exceeded my expectations. Therefore, if you are in the market for a band saw or just want to upgrade your current machinery, you may want to consider a vintage piece of equipment, such as the Y-20 Yates American. It’ll treat ya right.
Today in My Shop
After building eleven drawers for my router table, I faced the frames and will add inset drawer fronts. Photographs are forthcoming. Estimated time of completion: one week.
Sidenote
After 30 years of wedded bliss to the love of my life, I am firmly convinced she’s the one for me. March 14, 1980 - March 14, 2010.
Remember: Quality trumps speed (as iron trumps plastic).
WOODUS HACCUS MAXIMUS
Friday, March 5, 2010
Decisions, decisions...
To members of the clan of virtual woodworkers worldwide: Greetings.
I find myself in a predicament. A dilemma, if you will… (that’s dilemma with a long ‘i’); a disturbing quandary. With the emergence of the new router table in my shop, I find I must purchase one of two options. Option 1: The Triton 2 ¼ Hp router, that appears to be perfectly suited to upside down routing, as seen in Fine Woodworking #189. Option 2: A router lift by Bench Dog, the Prolift, as seen in Fine Woodworking #155. For those unfamiliar with a router lift, you must provide your own router. Each of these options appear to be highly effective. Both allow one to change bits above the table; a vast improvement over dated versions.
Members of my woodworking co-op (no finer people on God’s green earth and all former industrial arts teachers) have purchased and used the Triton system with good result. In the beginning, I was leaning favorably to the Bench Dog experience. Yet the co-op is pressuring me to follow their lead. I’m trying to hold out as the last bastion of individualism. However, the collective soul’s mantra is “Assimilation is inevitable.”
Therefore, if any of you have used either the Triton system or the Bench Dog system, I would covet your experiences. Also, if you have a preference, please give details as to why.
Today in My Shop
My router table is in the midst of metamorphosis. I started with eight drawers, which evolved to ten, and finally stopped at eleven. I can’t tell you how many sheets of plywood I’ve used so far, but suffice it to say, this will be a stationary piece of equipment, with lots of storage. The table will resemble a “bird farm” - that’s navy-speak for an aircraft carrier. I will use bass wood to face the frames and the drawer fronts. The drawers will run on full extension heavy-duty drawer slides. Completion date is still currently unknown. If you still find yourself without a router table, go forth boldly and build. For this is your destiny!
Remember: Quality trumps speed.
Pontification: Steely Dan’s “Reeling in the Years” guitar intro is superlative.
THE HACK-MEISTER
I find myself in a predicament. A dilemma, if you will… (that’s dilemma with a long ‘i’); a disturbing quandary. With the emergence of the new router table in my shop, I find I must purchase one of two options. Option 1: The Triton 2 ¼ Hp router, that appears to be perfectly suited to upside down routing, as seen in Fine Woodworking #189. Option 2: A router lift by Bench Dog, the Prolift, as seen in Fine Woodworking #155. For those unfamiliar with a router lift, you must provide your own router. Each of these options appear to be highly effective. Both allow one to change bits above the table; a vast improvement over dated versions.
Members of my woodworking co-op (no finer people on God’s green earth and all former industrial arts teachers) have purchased and used the Triton system with good result. In the beginning, I was leaning favorably to the Bench Dog experience. Yet the co-op is pressuring me to follow their lead. I’m trying to hold out as the last bastion of individualism. However, the collective soul’s mantra is “Assimilation is inevitable.”
Therefore, if any of you have used either the Triton system or the Bench Dog system, I would covet your experiences. Also, if you have a preference, please give details as to why.
Today in My Shop
My router table is in the midst of metamorphosis. I started with eight drawers, which evolved to ten, and finally stopped at eleven. I can’t tell you how many sheets of plywood I’ve used so far, but suffice it to say, this will be a stationary piece of equipment, with lots of storage. The table will resemble a “bird farm” - that’s navy-speak for an aircraft carrier. I will use bass wood to face the frames and the drawer fronts. The drawers will run on full extension heavy-duty drawer slides. Completion date is still currently unknown. If you still find yourself without a router table, go forth boldly and build. For this is your destiny!
Remember: Quality trumps speed.
Pontification: Steely Dan’s “Reeling in the Years” guitar intro is superlative.
THE HACK-MEISTER
Tuesday, March 2, 2010
Don't Fence Me In
Acquaintances, friends, those in the inner circle, and those who prefer not to be: Greetings from the dude of hack!
Allow me to surmise that the majority of you are the proud owners of a band saw, as am I. I was under the false impression that band saws were relegated to cutting curves. However, if you’re fortunate enough to have a band saw with a fence, you know they are much more. My band saw, a post
WWII relic, has not had a fence until recent days. A well-designed fence expands the capability of your saw at least two-fold. It becomes an excellent tool for rip cuts, cross cuts, and resawing (I know, I know…. a resaw is a type of rip cut).
Those of you who subscribe to Fine Woodworking Magazine may already know of the great design by Patrick Sullivan (Fine Woodworking Magazine, #210). It affords movement in two planes: one is the simple back-and-forth of the fence. The second adjusts for the drift of the blade. This adjustment is critical to the fine-tuning of your saw. Let me whole-heartedly suggest that you take another
look at the band saw fence design by Sullivan. I had difficulty at first with the understanding of the hinge block. But after seeing C.R.’s (one of my mentors) interpretation , it started to become clear. Now I’m the proud owner of a band saw fence that not only gives me great curved cuts, but allows me to resaw, rip, and crosscut. Please afford yourself the making and using of this excellent jig.
P.S. Some of you know that I am in the throes of router table construction. I bought ¾” plywood from our local home-improvement store, that appeared on the rack to be completely flat. However, after a few days in my shop, it has taken on a serpentine form, which has dramatically increased the difficulty quotient. That, coupled with the advent of mental fog, (possibly the insidious work of the wood gnome) has slowed fabrication to a snail’s pace. If the fog lifts, I plan to have an efficacious experience in the wood shop tomorrow.
Remember: Quality trumps speed.
THE HACCUS de ARBORISTEII
Allow me to surmise that the majority of you are the proud owners of a band saw, as am I. I was under the false impression that band saws were relegated to cutting curves. However, if you’re fortunate enough to have a band saw with a fence, you know they are much more. My band saw, a post
WWII relic, has not had a fence until recent days. A well-designed fence expands the capability of your saw at least two-fold. It becomes an excellent tool for rip cuts, cross cuts, and resawing (I know, I know…. a resaw is a type of rip cut).Those of you who subscribe to Fine Woodworking Magazine may already know of the great design by Patrick Sullivan (Fine Woodworking Magazine, #210). It affords movement in two planes: one is the simple back-and-forth of the fence. The second adjusts for the drift of the blade. This adjustment is critical to the fine-tuning of your saw. Let me whole-heartedly suggest that you take another
look at the band saw fence design by Sullivan. I had difficulty at first with the understanding of the hinge block. But after seeing C.R.’s (one of my mentors) interpretation , it started to become clear. Now I’m the proud owner of a band saw fence that not only gives me great curved cuts, but allows me to resaw, rip, and crosscut. Please afford yourself the making and using of this excellent jig.P.S. Some of you know that I am in the throes of router table construction. I bought ¾” plywood from our local home-improvement store, that appeared on the rack to be completely flat. However, after a few days in my shop, it has taken on a serpentine form, which has dramatically increased the difficulty quotient. That, coupled with the advent of mental fog, (possibly the insidious work of the wood gnome) has slowed fabrication to a snail’s pace. If the fog lifts, I plan to have an efficacious experience in the wood shop tomorrow.
Remember: Quality trumps speed.
THE HACCUS de ARBORISTEII
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